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In China, the ‘Great American’ Burger Now Features Australian Beef


In Beijing, Geng Xiaoyun, owner of Kunyuan restaurant, has removed American salt-baked chicken feet, or “phoenix talons,” from his menu due to a 30% price increase caused by tariffs. While he can source similar products from Brazil and Russia, Geng believes they don’t match the quality of American chicken feet, which he describes as spongy and tasty. Geng hopes to reintroduce American chicken feet if prices decrease, contingent on political stability.

The 90-day tariff pause between China and the U.S. is now at risk amidst rising tensions, with both nations accusing each other of violating agreements. The Chinese Commerce Ministry criticized U.S. export controls on artificial intelligence chips as undermining the Geneva accord. As a result, American agricultural products are disappearing from Chinese markets, with restaurants shifting to other imports.

For instance, Home Plate, a restaurant known for American barbecue, recently stopped serving U.S. beef, opting instead for Australian beef, which is exempt from tariffs under the China-Australia Free Trade Agreement. This has shifted the culinary landscape, as products like “The Great American” burger now utilize Australian beef.

Local beef supplier Liu Li notes that tariffs have driven U.S. beef prices up by 50%, rendering it unaffordable for many. He expresses disappointment, stating that U.S. beef’s superior flavor and fat content make it a preferred choice. The ongoing trade conflict has not only impacted pricing but has also altered supply chains, limiting the availability of favored American products in Chinese restaurants and stores.

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